Menu for september
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Les Bosquet des Papes 39.99
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a zany sort of wine. In most instances, it’s light to medium in body, by modern day comparisons. Grenache dominates, so it has juicy red fruits, earthy elements coupled with an ethereal perfume. I know what you’re thinking…that’s Pinot Noir on steroids. Well, that’s a little bit true.
“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a dense ruby/purple color and a sweet nose of black cherries, creme de cassis, plums, allspice, and smoky, gamey notes with a hint of damp earth. The wine is ripe, full-bodied, powerful, and moderately tannic. It will probably drink well young but should age nicely for 10-15 years. This superb estate never misses a beat with its wines, which are all reasonably drinkable at a young age, normally exhibit terrific Provencal typicity, and have uncommon aging potential.” 90-92 points
Clos des Brusquieres Tradition 39.99
If you are like me and love traditional wines, then try this little beauty from nature boy, Claude Courtil. All manual vineyard work coupled with aging in large oak foudres makes for a gorgeous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Having the watchful eye of godfather, Henri Bonneau, Châteauneuf legend, doesn’t hurt either. The wines are bottled unfiltered and unfined and in my estimation are largely underrated IMHO by Mr. Parker.
“The 2005 Clos des Brusquieres has much more to it, but still retains an elegant nose of dried herbs, black cherries, and black currants intermixed with a bit of cedar and resiny pine forest notes. It is a more complete wine, medium to full-bodied, with good depth, ripeness, and a heady finish. It should drink well for 8-10 years. These tend to be traditionally made Châteauneuf-du-Papes that can be somewhat irregular in quality, but when they hit the mark they are worthwhile old-style Châteauneuf-du-Papes.” 87-89 points
Chateau Fortia Cuvee du Baron 35.99
“That Never the choice of Quality should be abandoned. We are not made for mass production. No! We are unbeatable on the level of possessing elements that render the Artisan an Artist. Quality spells out the Genius of the French people”.
----1963 Baron Le Roy owner of Chateau Fortia
”Much better than its siblings and with the potential to turn out to be outstanding is the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee du Baron, which has a denser ruby/purple-tinged color, a nice, sweet nose of creme de cassis, cherry, licorice, truffle, and dried herbs. The wine is rich, broad, savory, and again opulent, lush, and easy to drink. This wine is a blend of 50% Grenache, 45% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre. It should drink well for a decade.” 88-90 points
Pierre Usseglio Tradition 49.99
Brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio now oversee this traditionally run estate. The wines display the elegance and finesse that I love about Châteauneuf. This is a medium-bodied wine with red fruit flavors balanced by fennel and white pepper. I’m certainly adding this one to my personal cellar.
“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition, a 100% destemmed cuvee produced from 25 hectoliters per hectare and aged 80% in old wood foudres and 20% in tank, is dense purple with terrific fruit notes of raspberry, black cherry, and even some black currant and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity, moderate tannin, and outstanding ripeness and length, this wine will be at its best in 2-3 years, and drink well for 12-15. [S]ome of the finest Châteauneuf-du-Papes of the vintage, particularly in 2005.” 92-94 points
Domaine de la Mordoree Cuvee de la Reine des Bois 134.99
I know what you’re thinking…Is any wine worth $135.00? The only way I can answer that question is with another question. Are those dumb electronic devices made in China worth $135.00? Are those shoes you’re wearing made in Turkey worth 135.00? Well, if those sorts of things are worth the money than this extraordinary, long lived wine from Christophe Delorme is a true value. A number of years ago I bought three bottles of the 2001 vintage for $120.00 each. It was, at that time, the most expensive wine I’d ever bought. I still have them. The vintage earned a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker and sells for $275.00-$400.00 at auction. I rest my case.
“A brilliant wine, and again there will be two cuvees, Christophe Delorme’s 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois has a wonderful, gorgeous black/purple color and a beautifully sweet nose of blackberries, scorched earth, graphite, tobacco leaf, and Provencal herbs and spice. Inky, pure, full-bodied, and tannic with good acidity, this wine is going to require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025+. This is an estate that was a no-brainer for inclusion in my recent book on the world’s greatest wine estates.” 94-96 points
Le Vieux Donjon 59.99
“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a more saturated dark ruby/purple color and an elegant nose of licorice, roasted meat, sweet blackberries and cherries, as well as cedar and spice. The wine is medium to full-bodied, has good acidity, and seems to convey a sense of both elegance and power with beautiful balance and purity. This wine will need 2-4 years of bottle age and should drink well for up to 15 or so years. One of the most traditionally run estates of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and consistently producers of excellent wines, Lucien and Marie-Joseph Michel consistently make the best selections in the cellar, and only bottle one Chateauneuf du Pape, resisting the current fashion for producing cuvees of old vines.” 90-93 points
Clos des Papes 89.99
“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (15.3% alcohol) has a deeper color than the 2004 and 2003 that I tasted side by side, and with its dense ruby/purple color to the rim, the wine has a fabulous bouquet of kirsch liqueur, raspberries, licorice, and a combination of spice and Provencal herbs. This is a knock-out wine that will probably need 4-5 years of bottle age and last for 20-25 years. This exquisitely run estate continues to turn out wines of great fragrance, richness as well as flavor authority and integrity.” 94-96 points
Domaine de la Solitude 46.99
This is the only Châteauneuf I’m featuring sans review. Why? It’s just so good. A little more saturated then some with rustic black fruit, Solitude provides a soul satisfying experience. Strange as it sounds it reminds me of Bandol crossed with Burgundy. Maybe Robert Parker hasn’t tasted this one yet. There’s not much available so let’s keep it our little secret.
Domaine Berthet-Rayne Tradition 29.99
Made in what is called the “modern style”, meaning an abundance of forward fruit and new oak. This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. It is a lovely crowd pleaser that still maintains the elements I find absolutely adorable in Châteauneuf.
“I only tasted the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it shows plenty of ripeness and a deep ruby, slightly purple-hued color, with hints of roasted Provencal herbs, black cherries, sweet currants, and pomegranate. The wine is well-made, has good acidity, and should merit a score close to outstanding when finally bottled. Look for it to evolve for up to a decade.” 87-89 points
Domaine des Sénéchaux 39.99
According to Châteauneuf-du-Pape legend, Vieux Telegraph is the only current winery that continues to use all thirteen grape varietals allowable. I do not know if this is truly accurate as their website lists the predominate varietals and “sundry others”, but I like the story. Is it really necessary to use all these grapes to make a great Châteauneuf? I’m not convinced, but I do know that Vieux Telegraph is one of the finest wines I’ve ever tasted. That being said Domaine des Sénéchaux “seasons” their wine with small amounts of Cinsault and Counoise, two of the thirteen grapes allowed. Cinsault provides softness and bouquet while Counoise adds a gamey tartness.
“This is a very fine effort from this well-known estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which was recently sold to Jean-Michel Cazes, the proprietor of Lynch-Bages in Bordeaux. The blend at present remains 65% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, and the rest Cinsault and Counoise. Cut from the same mold as the 2004, the 2005 Senechaux may turn out to be slightly better as it shows a classic concoction of Provencal herbs intermixed with roasted meats, sweet cherry jam, and some smoke, licorice, and incense. It is dense, rich, finely tuned, and perhaps has a bit more length and freshness than the 2004.” 90-91 points
Domaine Lafond Roc Epine 45.99
Love, love, love the wines from Lafond. Fresh and extracted with juicy black fruit flavors. These wines are lip smacking good. Looking for a spurge? Some Châteauneufs need a little more patience, but this Lafond, although it will last, is drinking beautifully right now.
“The potentially outstanding 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has an inky/purple color and a beautiful nose of black raspberries, cassis, and cherries intermixed with licorice, smoke, and a hint of subtle spice and pepper. It is deep, full-bodied, rich, and quite opulent and voluptuous. This is a sexy, up-front style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that will be very pleasing and should evolve for up to a decade. Although they have always made terrific Tavel rosés and good Côtes du Rhones and Liracs, their small production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape has been raised to a new, exciting level of quality. 90-92 points