Menu for september
Aromatic White Wines
Heidi Schröck 2005 Muscat 21.99
In my mind Heidi Schröck's 2004 lineup was unbeatable. 2005 may not live up to those expectations, but it's pretty close. I hesitated on this wine as it isn't what we think of as Muscat. The word is used as a brand name for this seductively floral wine that surprises you with its zingy, razor sharp minerality. A blend of 60% Gelber Muskateller and 20% each of Ottonel and Sauvignon Blanc, also known as Muskat Sylvaner. I almost excluded it from the mix because the Sauvignon Blanc seemed incompatible with my aromatic white wine theme. However after reading Heidi's website www.heidi-schroeck.com (she calls this wine tenderness and passion) and perusing my notes from my visit in 2004, I felt compelled to leave it, if merely to justify having some to drink for myself.
Zantho 2005 Muskat 14.99
This is a delightful little wine from Austrian producer Zantho. Known more for their red offerings, Zantho has recently released this lovely aromatic quaffer made from Muscat Ottonel typically used in Burgenland dessert wines. It's reputation is a less perfumed Muscat and is typically blended its unusual to bottle it as a single varietal. For the value price it can't be beat. I initially thought this wine was sweet, but after a few sips I realized it's actually quite dry with loads of floral elements and a spicy, racy finish. It's a wine just begging for some juicy bay scallops. Zantho is one of the first wineries to use the new glass closure, vino-lok. So far I think they're really cool and very easy to use.
Cold Heaven 2005 Viognier Le Bon Climat 34.99
There seems to be some interest recently in Viognier. Perhaps it's a backlash against all the generic Chardonnay on the market. If you like the weight and viscosity of Chardonnay then Viognier is a perfect segue. Morgan Clendenden, a talented winemaker on her own, is married to wild man Jim Clendenden of Au Bon Climat fame. Until recently she's specialized in small production Viognier, but as of late has added Pinot Noir to the mix. The Le Bon Climat is a delicious, exotic wine with tropical and stone fruit flavors and aromas of mock orange and fruit blossoms. If you love a rich, creamy mouth feel, this wine is for you. It's decadent, like drinking cream but with a sparkling, crisp finish. I can't recommend this wine enough. It's a delicious treat for a chilly autumn evening.
Verget 2004 Roussanne 12.99
I featured this wine in early summer and explained that Roussanne is not typically bottled as a separate varietal. That being said, there is not anything typical about Verget's Jean-Marie Guffens. Roussanne exhibits an abundance of fruit with substantial body. The first aromas remind me of sweet, spring flowers. It's followed by lively orange zest tang and a brilliant, clean finish. If you missed this wine the first time around you have one more chance, but I warn you, there's not much left.
Nora 2005 Albariño 15.99
Galicia is a world apart from the rest of Spain. The landscape is lush and green and the people look more Irish than Spanish and are likely to sound the same. Rias Baixas is a coastal region full of inlets where Albariño flourishes. This is seafood country and this aromatic wine with flavors of juicy peach and sweet orange is perfect with grilled fish or steamed mussels with fresh herbs.
Paul Blanck 2004 Gewürztraminer 24.99
Gewürztraminer is one of those wines you either love or hate. I love it and have found that Gewürztraminer lovers have an almost cult like zeal when they come into the wine store. Often they have a favorite dish or two that nothing, and I mean nothing will compliment like Gewürztraminer. This is Blanck's entry level Gewürztraminer it has flavors of fresh ginger and juicy mango with light jasmine floral elements. The wine finishes with a stony minerality and a brilliant zing of acidity. I particularly enjoy this wine with soft, pungent cheeses... i.e. Ohio's own Buckeye Grove French Munster www.buckeyegrovefarmcheese.com or a mini version of choucroute garni.
Bricco del Sole 2005 Moscato d'Asti 16.99
I hesisitate to drone on endlessly about turning 50, BUT age does begin to provide some perspective in regards to wine drinking tastes and trends. When I first became interested in wine most were under 12% alcohol. Now most are over 13%. I've always been partial to elegance over power, beauty over flashiness. This pretty little Moscato d' Asti is a slightly effervescent, lipsmacking, 5.5% alcohol beauty that's perfect with brunch or lunch?think smoky pepper bacon, lox and bagels, croque monsieur or antipasti. Sure it has some sweetness but it's balanced by juicy peach flavors and a crisp, crystalline finish and as an added bonus you can enjoy a glass (or two) and not have to take a nap.
Alfred Merkelbach 2005 Riesling Kabinett Ürzinger Würzgarten 12.99
Schloss Golbelsburg 2005 Riesling Golbelsburger 15.99
There are two seasons I absolutely love to drink Riesling... spring and autumn. These are the transitional seasons that often reflect the moderate temperatures and abundance of Midwestern produce. Now that the first Ohio apples are beginning to appear, along with 70 degree weather, my palate wanders to roast pork with sage and caramelized apples. What better pairing than these juicy, perfumed Rieslings, a drier version from Austria and a somewhat sweeter, low alcohol one from Germany. Both are ideal for a leisurely Sunday lunch or dinner and don't forget the pork and apples.
Les Cailloux 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 39.99
I've never been much for compromise. I can't stand that most restaurants don't make their own stock, or use inferior ingredients then pawn themselves off as cooking from scratch, fine dining restaurants. My only satisfaction to this ongoing dilemma is that the Winds can always say we use the finest ingredients available. We make everything we possibly can, and now with Joey and Chris Spohn, we have more like minded recruits to Kim's already fanatical ways. But as usual, I digress. I personally love Chateauneuf and have recently taken it on as a challenge to try to sell as much as I can. If you think Chateauneuf Red is hard to sell, then try Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. Superstar Andre Brunel fashions one of the best versions around just dripping with ripe melon and tropical fruit. An 80% Roussanne, 10% Clairette and 10% Grenache Blanc blend this lush, textured wine has a stony finish with an immense amount of power and absolutely no compromising. Whew... that's a lot of gushing. Can you tell I love it?
