Bodegas Ateca 2007 Atteca 18.99
Made from 100% Garnacha, the winemaker’s notes says the wine is produced from vines ranging in age from 80-120 years. Black fruits abound…blackberry, boysenberry and black cherry. Prolonged licorice finish with hints of black pepper spiciness. The 2007 vintage has been rated by Tanzer 91 points and Wine Spectator 90 points. What’s really important is I agree. This is an incredible wine for the price.

Cellar Can Blau 2006 Monstant 17.99
A blend of 40% Carinena, 40% Syrah, and 20% Garnacha, this inky wine could be considered a poor person’s Priorat.

La Gitana Manzanilla Sherry 500ml 14.99
This is one of those wines that hold a lot of nostalgia for me. Whenever I drink La Gitana I think of my friend Ethan. When I first moved to town in the seventies, one of the first people I met was Ethan Thomas. Aside from being incredibly handsome, he also was incredibly smart and very, very funny. To this day, there is no one that can make me laugh until I beg for mercy the way Ethan can. I credit him with first lighting my “Spanish loving” spark. He had lived in Spain for a few years after high school and was very fluent in Spanish and absolutely loved the food. At this point in my life the furthest I’d ever been from home was Pennsylvania, I’d never flown in a plane and I certainly had no idea there was such a thing as dry sherry you drank icy cold as you munched on salty almonds. It was (and still is) an epiphany.

Lustau Moscatel Emilin 15.99
A rich concentrated dessert wine with the distinctive flavour of the Moscatel grape. Smooth and mellow with a very clean aftertaste.

Lafage 2006 Cote Sud Rouge 12.99
Lafage 2007 Cote Est Blanc 12.99
These two wines from Eric Solomon Selections will delight your budget and your palate. The Cote Sud Rouge is 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache Noir and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon with just a smidge of oak aging to add a bit of fleshiness. The Cote Est Blanc is 60% Grenache Blanc & Gris, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Marsanne. The wine is all stainless steel fermented and is deliciously zingy. Both wines satisfy a household niche…they’re under $15.00 and they make my French/Croatian partner swoon.

Domaine de Dragon 2006 Cuvee St. Michel 18.99
A few years back this was one of my red wine staples. I always kept a bottle around because it goes with everything. It’s great with pizza, fabulous with macaroni and cheese and will make an ordinary roast chicken or steak dinner seem like an elegant feast. Black and purple fruits dominate and draw me back for more. It’s like an old love…familiar, I know it’s strengths and limitations. The wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah and 10% Grenache and offers one of the best red wine values around. But alas, I lost touch with this wine and hardly gave it another thought as I tried and became attached to others (I know, I’m kind of slutty that way).

Mas de Gourgonnier 2006 Les Baux de Provence 17.99
My love affair with this wine spans over a decade. The first time I saw the funny, squat shaped bottle, I had to give it a try. It’s been love ever since. The 2006 is a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Carignane, 20% old-vine Grenache and 10% Syrah. It’s 100% organic with oodles of flavor and that definite Provence vibe. Why, oh why, was I born in Southern Ohio instead of Southern France?

Vesselle Oeil de Pedrix 42.99
I know I’ ve said this before, but if there were one Champagne I could drink everyday, it would be this one from Vesselle. The winery was taken over in 1996 by Delphine Vesselle from her father, Jean and has never looked back. She fashions Oeil de Pedrix (eye of the partridge) from 100% Pinot Noir from Bouzy. The wine is the loveliest copper color with a yeasty, fresh baked bread aroma and a smoky element very characteristic of Pinot Noir. This is a food Champagne perfect for robust and flavorful main dishes.You are really doing yourself a disservice if you use this wine merely as a New Year’s Eve toast.

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’ Alsace Brut 19.99
Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’ Alsace Brut Rose 19.99
I just love German and Alsatian wines. Aside from the lovely complexity of flavors and intriguing expression of soil and vineyard styles, there is the long, long documentation of history in minutia. The Albrecht family traces their winemaking roots back to the 15th century. I appreciate career longevity. According to labor statistics, the average baby boomer will change jobs 9.6 times. I’ve basically had two jobs in my adult life. I don’t count working at the Air Force Museum Coffee Shop with Kim. That’s a saga fit for a TV drama, but as usual, I digress. The Albrecht Brut is 100% Pinot Blanc and is dry and refreshing with aromas of white flowers. Made from 100% Pinot Noir the Brut Rose is rounder with flavors of tart red currants and of course, a festive pink color. Both these sparklers are affordable indulgances.

Schramsberg 200 ?Blancs de Blancs 34.99
I’m so often disappointed with domestic sparkling wine, I seldom give them a second glance. Quite frankly I’d rather drink Cava, Prosecco or a sparkling wine from the Loire. The exception is Schramsberg. This is our equivalent of real Champagne…it’s the domestic sparkler I’m always proud to serve at the restaurant or show off to my wine geek friends. This Blanc de Blancs just rocks my world. It has all these juicy, citrusy flavors…meyer lemon, lime zest with the yeasty aromas of brioche. Love it.

Lallement Grand Cru Brut NV 39.99
Terry Theise was in town a few weeks ago for a tasting at Jean-Robert’s. I was dying to go, but alas it was the first night of Garlic Dinner and I pulled one of those not so uncommon 14 hour days. Toward the end of the evening I cleaned up a bit and strolled through the dining room. David Schildknecht and his group were just finishing up. I walked over and chatted, all the time wanting to ask him about the Terry Theise tasting. Not wanting to appear rude, especially to his wife Cathy, who endures endless wine conversations when she’s out with David I finally couldn’t help myself…”Did you make it to Terry’s tasting today? Any favorites?” “Lallement”, he answered. I tasted through Champagnes for this newsletter the next week and paid particular attention to this one. It’s focused and pristine. Unbelievably affordable for the quality. This is the Champagne I’’m drinking December 20th to celebrate my firstborn’s 13th birthday. Thanks David.

Guy Larmandier Vertus Brut Premier Cru NV 46.99
This is my crowd pleaser Champagne and it just takes Veuve Clicquot to the
mat. I mean there’s really no comparison. A Chardonnay based wine with low dosage it’s loaded with mineral and citrus high tones, lime zest especially. If you like it dry, dry, dry Larmandier offers up one of the best drinking bottles of authentic (and I mean that in the truest sense of the word) Champagne you’re ever going to find. Don’t pay for an inferior product with lots of glitzy advertising and an orange label. Instead include this beautiful bottling in your New Year’s Eve celebration. The only person you really need to impress is yourself.

Henri Billiot 1998 Gran Cru Reserve Brut 64.99
Serge Billiot is friend and neighbor of the Egly’s. This is Ambonnay and the name of the game is Pinot Noir. The two winemakers produce very different Champagnes. This wine is bubbling over with enthusiastic fruit with an appealing smokiness. I tasted this last year and it seems particularly silky and seductive. I always choose a Champagne from this newsletter to have for my NYEve celebration, typically on New Years Day (I am in the restaurant business after all). I’m thinkin’ this is the one for my honey and me to usher in 2008.

Lengs and Cooter Sparkling Red 21.99
Paringa Sparkling Shiraz 9.99
Last year everyone thought I was crazy trying to sell sparkling red wine. Guess what happened…customers loved them and really, what’s not to like? The Lengs and Cooter is a blend of Malbec and Shiraz. It’s perfect with red wine inspired small plates. It’s the prettiest little wine you can imagine with a dark garnet color and a lovely, frothy lavender mousse. It’s full of red cherry fruit and baking spice aromas but make no mistake, this is a dry wine. I don’t know what else to say to convince you. Let the rest be snobs, you and I will just enjoy ourselves with this lovely sparkling red. Paringa offers 100% Sparkling Shiraz and is a touch fruitier and less complex than the Lengs and Cooter. I find this a delightful accompaniment to after dinner cheese or as a festive lunch or brunch wine.

Botter Prosecco ‘Spago’ NV 10.99
There’s oodles of insipid sparkling wine out there folks. My advice…avoid it at all costs! I think of many things this way since I’ve turned 50. I just refuse to watch much TV. It’s just too stupid. Maybe it’s the feeling that I don’t have all the time in the world anymore, but I don’t want to spend any on my precious free time watching Dancing with the Stars. I feel the same way about food. Sure, I’m careful about my diet without feeling denied, but I will not eat junk or just plain bad food. Life’s too short. Believe me, I can partake of a high calorie indulgance now and then but I’m more likely to eat an entire Vosges Barcelona Bar then a box of Archway cookies. So it goes with wine…don’t even think about buying the Barefoot Bubbly when you can indulge yourself with Botter’s Prosecco. It’s delicious on it’s own, but is delicious for any sort of holiday cocktail you can imagine. Aside from Mimosas, try some of the cassis, framboise or peach liquors we sell at the winestore with this Prosecco.

Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru 65.99
Many years ago there were a handful of these Champagnes Terry Theise so decriptively calls “Farmer Fizz”. The big houses still have the lion’s share of the market, but these are the guys who grow the grapes and make the Champagne that lets you taste the difference between Ambonnay, Bouzy, Äy or Verzenay. Egly-Ouriet is the biggest, fleshiest Champagne of my offerings. It’s mostly Pinot Noir and a smidge of Chardonnay with aromas of fresh biscuits or baking pie dough with earthy, red fruit flavors. I have only one case available. That’s it. No more.

Paul Bara NV Rose Brut 59.99
Many times people feel a calling, either to do charity work or to the church or to teach. This many sound trite, but perhaps my calling in the wine world is to evangalize for pink wine. Let me tell ya, in our “discriminating” state of Ohio, talking about pink wine is akin to saying you like blue and gold. Them’s fightin’ words. So here I am to tell you one more time and you’re just going to have to trust me. You don’t need to be pinkphobic. I know how you feel, I’ve lived in —-phoblic Ohio my entire life. Rosé Champagnes and most Rosé still wines from Europe are not sweet. That wine is White Zinfandel. In fact, this lovely pink tinged Champagne from Paul Bara may be the driest in my Champagne lineup. This Kermit Lynch import is from Bouzy and that’s Pinot Noir country. An exquisite Champagne with beautiful red currant/red raspberry fruit and an unexpected richness on the palate.

La Spinetta Moscato d’ Asti 2006 Bricco Quaglia 17.99
Although a dollar or two more than most Moscato d’ Asti, La Spinetta’s version is heads above the rest. Yes, most people serve it as a dessert wine, but what about as an aperitivo with some salty cheese or for brunch with a smoked salmon omelette? This lightly effervescent wine is loaded with juicy peach flavors with a zippy zing of tangerine zest in the finish. At at mere 5.5% alcohol, it’s the perfect little quaffer for Christmas brunch.

Cloud View 2004 Proprietary Red 69.99
Cloud View shares some premium real estate on Pritchard Hill nestled within the Vaca Mountains on the east side of Napa. Neighbors include Bryant Family, Chappellet, Colgin, David Arthur, Harrison, Long, and Martin…not bad company. The 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot blend is full-bodied with rich extracted blackberry fruit and soft, supple tannins. I know it’s expensive, but one taste and you’ll know why. This is the only wine made at Cloud View and is very limited with only a few six-pack cases available.

Robert Craig 2004 Affinity 39.99
A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, Affinity is a gorgeous Bordeaux-style blend from Napa. Beautiful black cherry flavors with an elegant finish. If you love wine and don’t need another scarf for Christmas, drop a hint…a bottle of Affinity even fits nicely in a stocking.

Owen Roe 200 Lady Rosa Syrah 54.99
Owen Roe 2006 Abbott’s Table 29.99
The wines of Owen Roe have really captured the imagination of my customers. These are lush, handcrafted wines that are made from Washington and Oregon grapes. The Lady Rosa Syrah is produced from the Dubrul vineyard that are known for it’s large stones, producing a wine with rich, intense fruit and beautiful floral elements.
I’m offered so little of the Owen Roe wines, I snatch up every little bit I can. This is the most popular wine in their lineup. Inspired by what the English call Claret, this cult Oregon winery makes a unique version blending 23% Zinfandel, 16.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 13% Syrah, 11% Merlot, 8% Blaufrankisch, 8% Sangiovese, 4.5% Petit Sirah and 2% Malbec. I know what you’re thinking…over the top, but it’s really a terrifically well integrated, lush red wine.

Caravan 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon 34.99
The 2004 Caravan is an estate-grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon that’s blended with small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine is spicy and aromatic with rich, concentrated brambly, black fruit flavors. I just saw the movie Elizabeth: The Golden Age and kept thinking, “What is Elizabeth (Cate Blanchett) drinking out of those jeweled goblets?” It brought to mind the opulent Darioush winery. Caravan is their second label and in my mind one of the regions most overlooked Cabernets.

Helix 2004 Merlot 24.99
Because there is such a huge quantity of bad Merlot in the market, I sometimes forget there is very good, even profound Merlot out there (Robert Sinskey comes to mind). Helix is produced by small craft winery Reininger with grapes sourced from the larger Columbia Valley. The Reininger wines focus on Walla Walla sourced fruit. The wine is meant to be accessible upon release although a few years of bottle age could only help. This certainly isn’t the fruity quaffer you buy at Kroger’s. It has a weighty palate, filled with juicy, black fruit. Because of it’s Washington roots, there is an earthiness in the finish that reminds me of a new world Pomerol.

Dashe 2005 Zinfandel Dry Creek 22.99
A blend of 95% Zinfandel and 5% Petite Sirah with gorgeous blackberry and kirsch flavors. At 14.5% alcohol this Zinfandel is very moderate and elegant. Whiffs of chocolate and a long silky finish remind me why I love Zinfandel many years ago. If only they all tasted this good.

Tyrus Evan 2004 Claret Ciel du Cheval 41.99
This is a very small production winery using Washington and Oregon fruit. The man behind the scenes is none other than cult winemaker Ken Wright. He says his first love is Pinot but decided to have some fun blending Bordeaux style grapes from select vineyards. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the Ciel du Cheval offers a great midpoint between rich extracted Napa wines and the austere quality of Bordeaux.

Robert Sinskey 2004 Cabernet Franc Vandal 42.99
Cabernet Franc is always one of my favorite wines. It can be made in varying styles but the perfumed elegance of the grape makes it irresistable. Love, love Sinskey wines and this Cabernet Franc from their Vandal vineyard is no exception. Full of red and black raspberry flavors along with a slightly herbal element.

Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne 21.99
“The 2005 Bourgogne is amazingly dark in color, smells and tastes of raw blackberries and graphite, saturates the palate with formidable, bitter-sweet intensity of fruit, and finishes firmly with persistent flavors of blackberry and roasted meat. Amboise characterized this year’s fruit as consisting of ‘perfect berries, solid and well-structured’ from which he concluded it should all be de-stemmed and a cautious approach taken to extraction. But caution is relative. Bertrand Ambroise certainly vinifies with a fanatic dedication to quality, but also with no concessions to the faint of heart, and his formidably tannic 2005’s will strike some tasters as hyper-concentrated and flirting with over-extraction. Perhaps a bit more refinement and differentiation might have been achieved with a less robust and woody approach? Ambroise works largely with 400-liter barrels in an effort to preserve fruit by diminishing the surface-to-volume ratio and thus the flavoring effects of new wood, but I cannot claim that I would have recognized that fact in the wines themselves.” 88 points

Domaine Joblot Clos Servioisine Givry 59.99
“From a site on the northern edge of town, and matured in around half new barrels, Joblot’s 2005 Givry Clos de la Servoisine displays an alluring nose of lightly-cooked plum, black raspberry, nutmeg, cinnamon and cocoa powder. Vibrant, sappy, and intensely-fruited in the mouth, with Cote-Rotie-like notes of bacon and smoke emerging, it finishes with concentration if relative tightness on notes of sappy black fruit, smoked meat, salt and wet stones. I suspect this will harden over the next year and ought then to be given 3-5 additional years to open back up. Jean-Marc Joblot says he is always seeking precisely what 2005 delivered – the best fruit of his thirty year career: concentrated, pure, its elements in equilibrium. He continues to rely on roto-fermentors and is unafraid of new wood. But the wines are not just well-concentrated. They are well-balanced and possessed of considerable refinement, once again proving that the best reds of the Cote Chalonaise deserve more serious attention than most Burgundy lovers or journalists accord them. Joblot was at pains to warn me that these wines were traumatized from recent bottling, although I can’t say I would have arrived at that conclusion from their performance.” 90 points

Fournier Marsannay “Clos du Roy”   29.99
“Exhibiting the proclivity of its site, Fournier’s 2005 Marsannay Clos du Roy delivers a strong dose of iodine and chalk to go with its blackberry and beet root fruit. A similarly site typical smokiness hangs about here, too. Tellingly, the component of this wine that was raised in new barriques smelled and tasted less pungently smoky than the portion vinified in tank! Firm in feel but with a good sense of stuffing, this finishes with sedate richness, subtle bitterness, and lovely dark berry and mineral layers. Young Laurent Fournier has been quietly elevating the quality of his family’s wines and joining the ranks of young growers (notably Philippe Collotte, Sylvain Pataille, and Philippe Roty) who – along with veteran Bruno Clair – are re-defining the potential of Marsannay and in the process offering some excellent Pinot values. As an illustration of the handicap under which the image and practice of vinifying Marsannay still labors, as well as of our changing climatic times, the I.N.A.O. gave Fournier trouble because his simple village Marsannay weighed in at a legally unrecognizably high level above 13.5% natural alcohol! In any event, says Fournier, he succeeded in sloughing off alcohol this year just by having done so many of his fermentations with whole clusters (which release their sugar over time). Malos only finally finished for Fournier in December, but most of the wines were assembled and about to be bottled when I visited him at the end of February.” 88-89 points

Fournier Fixin les Petites Crais    32.99
“Fournier’s 2005 Fixin Les Petits Craies smells of ripe blackberries, saturates the palate with subtle chalk- bitter chocolate- and herb-inflected blackberry juiciness, then takes a Fixin-typical turn, a chalky, faintly bitter turn in the finish, yet all the while (unlike many of its genre) retaining strong, ripe, refreshing fruit. This has more substance than the wines that preceded it, and needs 3-4 years in the bottle to show at its best. Young Laurent Fournier has been quietly elevating the quality of his family’s wines and joining the ranks of young growers (notably Philippe Collotte, Sylvain Pataille, and Philippe Roty) who – along with veteran Bruno Clair – are re-defining the potential of Marsannay and in the process offering some excellent Pinot values. As an illustration of the handicap under which the image and practice of vinifying Marsannay still labors, as well as of our changing climatic times, the I.N.A.O. gave Fournier trouble because his simple village Marsannay weighed in at a legally unrecognizably high level above 13.5% natural alcohol! In any event, says Fournier, he succeeded in sloughing off alcohol this year just by having done so many of his fermentations with whole clusters (which release their sugar over time). Malos only finally finished for Fournier in December, but most of the wines were assembled and about to be bottled when I visited him at the end of February.” 89-90 points

Fournier Marsannay “Clos du Roy”   29.99
“Exhibiting the proclivity of its site, Fournier’s 2005 Marsannay Clos du Roy delivers a strong dose of iodine and chalk to go with its blackberry and beet root fruit. A similarly site typical smokiness hangs about here, too. Tellingly, the component of this wine that was raised in new barriques smelled and tasted less pungently smoky than the portion vinified in tank! Firm in feel but with a good sense of stuffing, this finishes with sedate richness, subtle bitterness, and lovely dark berry and mineral layers.” 88-89 points

Domaine Lucien Boillot 1er Cru Pommard les Fremiers 69.99
Domaine Boillot 1er Cru Gevrey-Chambertin les Cherbaudes 85.99
“There is only one discouraging word I can think of concerning 2005 red Burgundies: quantity. At each domaine we have been allocated 10-30% less than normal, thanks to low yields at the harvest. Less juice, less wine. In terms of quality, the vintage has just about everything one could ask for.” Kermit Lynch.
The wines from Domaine Boillot are perfect examples of a great vintage and sadly little wine. The Pommard les Fremiers is a powerhouse of a wine with chewy, dark plum fruit and a texture that belies Pinot Noir. Boillot’s Gevrey-Chambertin les Cherbaudes adds to the collection of power pinots. This Côte de Nuit site is known for wines of power and substance. There’s also a whole lot of tannin goin’ on. These two wines will reward you tenfold, but you must have patience grasshopper.

Domaine Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes 36.99
I know what you’re thinking…this is a white wine. I’m the same way, I hear Chassagne-Montrachet and I think delicious full-bodied, complex and sexy Chardonnay. Wrong. Lovely cherry fruit with a bit of earthy truffle aromas, I mean really, what’s not to like. I love, love, love this wine. It’s an elegantly perfumed Pinot Noir from the son of world class winemaker, Michel Colin of Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger. The two sons, Philippe and Bruno have amicably split from the domaine, but all the wines seem to have landed on their feet, each imbued with a distinctive style.
“When the two Colin brothers decided to work separately I felt bad for Michel, their father, because I know how hard he worked to build a domaine large enough to support three families. But as it turns out, I’m happy with the situation because we have wine from three Colins, each with talent and individuality.” Kermit Lynch

Nicolas Potel Nuits St. Georges 49.99
Nicolas Potel Savigny-les-Beaune Vieilles Vignes 34.99
I always love the wines of Nicolas Potel. I try to separate the person from the wine, but it’s hard. When I met him, I felt as though we were kindred spirits; I loved his whole approach and outlook on grape growing and wine production. He’s an old world soul, remaining true to his heritage while living in and enjoying the modern world. The Nuits St. Georges is a mouthful of red fruit flavors. It reminds me of the handfuls of Peach Mountain raspberries I’ve been eating the past 3 weeks. A tart minerality gives way to a long finish. Again, a few years, patiently waiting for this wine to evolve will reap delicious rewards. I always have difficulty selling Savigny-les-Beaune. Sometimes the style can be a little shrill compared to other locations. This is the second vintage of this wine. Nicolas bought this parcel planted in 1913 in 2003. The wine is amazingly lush and full-bodied. Delicious.

Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chorey les Beaune 27.00
“The Drouhin 2005 Chorey-les-Beaune offers a fetching nose of high-toned cherry, almond, nutmeg, and cinnamon. The purity, delicacy and penetration of which wines from the unassumingly flat yet almost magically well-drained vineyards of Chorey are capable represent a special delight, and one will seldom encounter a better example. Bright and refreshing on the palate, light and lithe but by no means skimping on flavor concentration, this doles out abundant sweet fruit accented by cherry pit, tart fruit skin, and invigorating salty mineral notes. It represents an amazing value in today’s high-priced Burgundy market that one could only be grateful to be offered as a glass pour or as “Pinot 101.” 90 points

Domaine Joseph Drouhin Clos des Mouches 99.00
“Representing huge domaine holdings and in effect the Drouhin flag ship, their 2005 Beaune Clos des Mouches displays aromas of roasted meat, wood smoke, black truffles, plum and black raspberry. Persistently meaty in the mouth, with plum pit and wet stone adjuncts, this is archetypal 2005: richly ripe yet with an invigorating tart fresh edge and quite dark, even somber in flavor shadings. The long savory finish, while pouring out a generous helping of top quality fruit and meat juices, also offers a veritable catalog of mineral nuances … if only one had names for them all. This should be terrific in 5-7 years.” 92 points

Domaine Joseph Voillot Champans Premier Cru Volnay 44.99
“The 2005 Volnay Champans (from vines averaging 50 years of age in a cru of which the domaine owns a good 8%) offers sour cherry, red currant, rose hip, and cinnamon aromas, clear, juicy fruit with underlying wet stone on the palate, and alluring fresh ripe fruit and sweet spice in its finish. Slightly less sleek, refined or cutting than the Brouillards, and exhibiting as yet little of the fungal, forest floor or game elements one might expect to encounter in this site, this nevertheless displays admirable purity and at least decade-long aging potential. The sleek, well-concentrated, and fascinatingly-flavored 2004, incidentally – “picked berry by berry” to avoid any taint of hail, says Charlot – is no less excellent. Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address!” 89-90 points

“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a dense ruby/purple color and a sweet nose of black cherries, creme de cassis, plums, allspice, and smoky, gamey notes with a hint of damp earth. The wine is ripe, full-bodied, powerful, and moderately tannic. It will probably drink well young but should age nicely for 10-15 years. This superb estate never misses a beat with its wines, which are all reasonably drinkable at a young age, normally exhibit terrific Provencal typicity, and have uncommon aging potential.” 90-92 points

Clos des Brusquieres Tradition 39.99
If you are like me and love traditional wines, then try this little beauty from nature boy, Claude Courtil. All manual vineyard work coupled with aging in large oak foudres makes for a gorgeous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Having the watchful eye of godfather, Henri Bonneau, Châteauneuf legend, doesn’t hurt either. The wines are bottled unfiltered and unfined and in my estimation are largely underrated IMHO by Mr. Parker.

“The 2005 Clos des Brusquieres has much more to it, but still retains an elegant nose of dried herbs, black cherries, and black currants intermixed with a bit of cedar and resiny pine forest notes. It is a more complete wine, medium to full-bodied, with good depth, ripeness, and a heady finish. It should drink well for 8-10 years. These tend to be traditionally made Châteauneuf-du-Papes that can be somewhat irregular in quality, but when they hit the mark they are worthwhile old-style Châteauneuf-du-Papes.” 87-89 points

Chateau Fortia Cuvee du Baron 35.99
“That Never the choice of Quality should be abandoned. We are not made for mass production. No! We are unbeatable on the level of possessing elements that render the Artisan an Artist. Quality spells out the Genius of the French people”.
—-1963 Baron Le Roy owner of Chateau Fortia

”Much better than its siblings and with the potential to turn out to be outstanding is the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee du Baron, which has a denser ruby/purple-tinged color, a nice, sweet nose of creme de cassis, cherry, licorice, truffle, and dried herbs. The wine is rich, broad, savory, and again opulent, lush, and easy to drink. This wine is a blend of 50% Grenache, 45% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre. It should drink well for a decade.” 88-90 points

Pierre Usseglio Tradition 49.99
Brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio now oversee this traditionally run estate. The wines display the elegance and finesse that I love about Châteauneuf. This is a medium-bodied wine with red fruit flavors balanced by fennel and white pepper. I’m certainly adding this one to my personal cellar.

“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition, a 100% destemmed cuvee produced from 25 hectoliters per hectare and aged 80% in old wood foudres and 20% in tank, is dense purple with terrific fruit notes of raspberry, black cherry, and even some black currant and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity, moderate tannin, and outstanding ripeness and length, this wine will be at its best in 2-3 years, and drink well for 12-15. [S]ome of the finest Châteauneuf-du-Papes of the vintage, particularly in 2005.” 92-94 points

Domaine de la Mordoree Cuvee de la Reine des Bois 134.99
I know what you’re thinking…Is any wine worth $135.00? The only way I can answer that question is with another question. Are those dumb electronic devices made in China worth $135.00? Are those shoes you’re wearing made in Turkey worth 135.00? Well, if those sorts of things are worth the money than this extraordinary, long lived wine from Christophe Delorme is a true value. A number of years ago I bought three bottles of the 2001 vintage for $120.00 each. It was, at that time, the most expensive wine I’d ever bought. I still have them. The vintage earned a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker and sells for $275.00-$400.00 at auction. I rest my case.

“A brilliant wine, and again there will be two cuvees, Christophe Delorme’s 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois has a wonderful, gorgeous black/purple color and a beautifully sweet nose of blackberries, scorched earth, graphite, tobacco leaf, and Provencal herbs and spice. Inky, pure, full-bodied, and tannic with good acidity, this wine is going to require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025+. This is an estate that was a no-brainer for inclusion in my recent book on the world’s greatest wine estates.” 94-96 points

Le Vieux Donjon 59.99
“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a more saturated dark ruby/purple color and an elegant nose of licorice, roasted meat, sweet blackberries and cherries, as well as cedar and spice. The wine is medium to full-bodied, has good acidity, and seems to convey a sense of both elegance and power with beautiful balance and purity. This wine will need 2-4 years of bottle age and should drink well for up to 15 or so years. One of the most traditionally run estates of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and consistently producers of excellent wines, Lucien and Marie-Joseph Michel consistently make the best selections in the cellar, and only bottle one Chateauneuf du Pape, resisting the current fashion for producing cuvees of old vines.” 90-93 points

Clos des Papes 89.99
“The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (15.3% alcohol) has a deeper color than the 2004 and 2003 that I tasted side by side, and with its dense ruby/purple color to the rim, the wine has a fabulous bouquet of kirsch liqueur, raspberries, licorice, and a combination of spice and Provencal herbs. This is a knock-out wine that will probably need 4-5 years of bottle age and last for 20-25 years. This exquisitely run estate continues to turn out wines of great fragrance, richness as well as flavor authority and integrity.” 94-96 points

Domaine de la Solitude 46.99
This is the only Châteauneuf I’m featuring sans review. Why? It’s just so good. A little more saturated then some with rustic black fruit, Solitude provides a soul satisfying experience. Strange as it sounds it reminds me of Bandol crossed with Burgundy. Maybe Robert Parker hasn’t tasted this one yet. There’s not much available so let’s keep it our little secret.

Domaine Berthet-Rayne Tradition 29.99
Made in what is called the “modern style”, meaning an abundance of forward fruit and new oak. This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. It is a lovely crowd pleaser that still maintains the elements I find absolutely adorable in Châteauneuf.

“I only tasted the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it shows plenty of ripeness and a deep ruby, slightly purple-hued color, with hints of roasted Provencal herbs, black cherries, sweet currants, and pomegranate. The wine is well-made, has good acidity, and should merit a score close to outstanding when finally bottled. Look for it to evolve for up to a decade.” 87-89 points

Domaine des Sénéchaux 39.99
According to Châteauneuf-du-Pape legend, Vieux Telegraph is the only current winery that continues to use all thirteen grape varietals allowable. I do not know if this is truly accurate as their website lists the predominate varietals and “sundry others”, but I like the story. Is it really necessary to use all these grapes to make a great Châteauneuf? I’m not convinced, but I do know that Vieux Telegraph is one of the finest wines I’ve ever tasted. That being said Domaine des Sénéchaux “seasons” their wine with small amounts of Cinsault and Counoise, two of the thirteen grapes allowed. Cinsault provides softness and bouquet while Counoise adds a gamey tartness.

“This is a very fine effort from this well-known estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which was recently sold to Jean-Michel Cazes, the proprietor of Lynch-Bages in Bordeaux. The blend at present remains 65% Grenache, 18% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, and the rest Cinsault and Counoise. Cut from the same mold as the 2004, the 2005 Senechaux may turn out to be slightly better as it shows a classic concoction of Provencal herbs intermixed with roasted meats, sweet cherry jam, and some smoke, licorice, and incense. It is dense, rich, finely tuned, and perhaps has a bit more length and freshness than the 2004.” 90-91 points

Domaine Lafond Roc Epine 45.99
Love, love, love the wines from Lafond. Fresh and extracted with juicy black fruit flavors. These wines are lip smacking good. Looking for a spurge? Some Châteauneufs need a little more patience, but this Lafond, although it will last, is drinking beautifully right now.

“The potentially outstanding 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has an inky/purple color and a beautiful nose of black raspberries, cassis, and cherries intermixed with licorice, smoke, and a hint of subtle spice and pepper. It is deep, full-bodied, rich, and quite opulent and voluptuous. This is a sexy, up-front style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that will be very pleasing and should evolve for up to a decade. Although they have always made terrific Tavel rosés and good Côtes du Rhones and Liracs, their small production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape has been raised to a new, exciting level of quality. 90-92 points

Jean Marc Brocard 2005 Sauvignon de St. Bris 18.99
Leos have an intense sense of taste and smell. When hunting in the jungle or a wine shop, the big cat gravitates toward the overlooked secrets of the world. This Sauvignon Blanc, as the only non Chardonnay white wine region in Burgundy fits the description. Elevated to AOC status in 2001, St. Bris offers a briskness of fruit and more body than you might expect. It’s a flawless pairing with oysters or any grilled shellfish you might encounter this summer. If your budget can handle the extra expense, Brocard’s Chablis’ are delicious as well.

Domaine Trotereau 2005 Quincy 15.99
Alfred Hitchcock and Madonna. What do you think about that? Fidel Castro and Mick Jagger. Our kitchen manager Joey’s mother and me. All Leos. Don’t even ask me how this plays into our dynamic. Freud (a Taurus, surprisingly) comes to my aid: Leo has more dichotomy than any other astrological sign. Look for a significant change of attitude that coincides with the new moon on the 12th. Keep plenty of Quincy (say kan see) on hand for impromptu get togethers and summer vegetable feasts. Although considered one of the lesser regions of the Loire, Quincy’s appeal is in lovely citrus tinged wine with a bit of floral spiciness.

Mud House 2006 Sauvignon Blanc 14.99
The past few years I’ve steered clear of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. For my tastes, that distinctive cat urine smell just turned me off. I know some people like it, but for me it’s unappealing. Mud House offers a more forgiving style with a crystalline clarity of fruit and zingy minerality. It’s just what this feline had in mind. An excellent choice for summer lapping, I mean drinking.

Elizabeth Spencer 2006 Sauvignon Blanc 15.99
Although a dyed in the wool Euro wine lover, this Leo is always in a quandary in her desire to buy American. This recently discovered Sauvignon Blanc offers all that is wonderful and lovely about Sauvignon Blanc and California wine. Only 40 barrels of this delicious 100% Sauvignon Blanc is made by domestic and business partners Elizabeth Pressler and Spencer Graham. Delicious lemon zest and ripe pear flavors with a hint of fennel in the finish. I had this wine the other night with some delicious goat cheese and dry salami. It was to die for.

Joel Gott 2006 Sauvignon Blanc 11.99
Joel Gott is a Napa legend. His family has lived in Napa for four generations, most of them in the wine business. The guy has some great connections and makes wines of incredible value. The Sauvignon Blanc is a classic with juicy citrus flavors and some tropical fruit elements in the finish. Perfect for summer foods or as a before dinner aperitif. Make sure you check out his Cabernet Sauvignon. For 16.99 you’ll not find a better one.

Boulay 2006 Sancerre 23.99 375ml 14.99
Love is always on the mind of the Leo woman. Although you and Taurus often butt heads, Leo’s passion and energy coupled with the creative and stable Taurus nature makes for a dynamic relationship. Celebrating is always in order, but look for this lovely, flinty Sancerre to make an appearance around the 13th. Maybe one of the half bottles for a romantic picnic perhaps?

Tour Saint- Martin 2005 Menetou Salon 17.99
When people ask “what’s your favorite wine,” I always say it’s like picking my favorite child. It really depends on the moment. Sometimes I don’t want a wine that requires too much thinking, but offers a wealth of flavor and zingy terroir. Other times I like something big and flashy, like an esoteric, grower Champagne…maybe for my birthday (hint). . Say what…Menetou Salon? Standing in the shadow of Sancerre, the wines from this region are often overshadowed. This wine from Morogues is on par with many Sancerres and at a much lower price. It is absolutely my favorite wine with summer salads and pan-seared white fish. As for my kids, all three of them are adorable right now. Just don’t make me pick my favorite while little Henry is strumming Emma’s guitar as I try to finish this newsletter…

Mikäel Bouges 2005 Touraine Sauvignon Pente de Chavigny 12.99
The most loyal of the astrological signs is the queen of the jungle. Loyalty is hard won, but once acquired you’ll have an unwavering advocate. Some may choose to align themselves with flashy, crowd pleasers, but this cat prefers natural elegance over all that new oak and high alcohol “make up”. Bouges organically cultivates his land, uses wild yeasts and produces a Sauvignon Blanc that defies its price. Give me an handcrafted little Touraine quaffer anyday. It’s quintessential authenticity.

Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rosé 22.99
Truly one of the most inspired rosés in the newsletter. This blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvedre has a silky, elegant texture that seems to capture the essence of the beautiful Riviera town of its birth. It’s a wine to contemplate both because of price and pedigree. Don’t throw this one back with cheese and crackers, wait for a lovely grilled whole fish or some pasta with fresh sweet crabmeat.

Verget du Sud Vin de Pays Vaucluse Rosé de Syrah 9.99
Verget is one of those producers I always count on to provide a consistent, quality wine at a fair price. No glitz, no flash, just solid winemaking with consistently reliable fruit. This is a perfect summer libation with lean red currant/red raspberry fruit and 12% alcohol. Sip this poolside or bring it along to any family gathering or picnic. It has a screwcap making imbibing in out of the way places much more convenient.

Château de Roquefort Côtes de Provence Corail Rosé 13.99
Another terrific vintage from my favorite French rosé producer. As you might remember Corail is in reference to the coral color of the wine. The blend is Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, the usual suspects, but with the additional seasonings of white varietals, Clairette and Vermentino. It’s a juicy, mineral-spiked wine just cryin’ out for garlic, capers and olive oil.

Commanderie de Peyrassol Côtes du Provence Rosé 16.99
This is a gem of a producer with, unfortunately, a scant amount of wine to sell. The Commandarie is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. The estate’s emphasis is on juicy, watermelon and strawberry fruit with more body than you’d imagine from rosé. I also have a very small amount of the Chateau Peyrassol for 24.99 that has the addition of the ancient Provençal Tibouren grape provides aromatics and elegance.

Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rosé 26.99
Chateau Pradeaux has been in the Portalis family since before the French revolution. Today Cyrille Portalis maintains the domaine producing one of the most coveted Bandols from the region. As with other Bandol producers, their red wines are so prized that only small amounts of rosé are produced. A blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvedre this is one of the richest, most complex rosés produced in France. It’s pricey, I know, but well worth the cash. I only have 1 case for those of you who like rosé esoterica.

Artazuri Navarra Rosado 10.99
The first time I visited Spain, I was shocked at all the pink wine the locals drank. At that time I wasn’t the pink crusader I’ve become. In fact, I must admit some disdain for all that pink drinking. In my mind, Spain was the land of red wine and red wine only. Thankfully, I’ve done a lot of therapy, confronted some issues and long held prejudices and I can honestly say I am not a pinkphobe. If you’re out there struggling with this issue, I suggest you grab a bottle of this magenta Grenache rosé and share it with your snobby red wine drinkin’ friends. If they still do not get it, tell them to go back to their air-conditioning, roast some prime rib and pull out an expensive Napa Cab, but as usual, I digress. Beware. This wine was not cold stabilized (it’s a good thing) and contains a fair amount of tartrates. Go to www.wineintro.com/glossary/c/coldstabilization.html for more information.

Château Lacombe Côtes du Ventoux Rosé 14.99
Château Lacombe was purchased in 2000 by Paul Jejune, the dynamic sixth generation winemaker and owner of Domain de Montpertuis in Châteauneuf du Pâpe. The wine is a beautiful salmon color with flavors of ripe raspberry and citrus peel. The blend is Grenache and Cinsault. Although this wine has a bit of an alcohol kick it remains light and zingy making it perfect with cheeses, salami or salty almonds.

Domaine de la Soucherie Rosé de Loire 14.99
Last year I featured my first rosé from the Loire (see below) and it was a knockout. When I was offered another, I thought I had better grab it up. A blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% old vine Grolleau, a Loire varietal that has low alcohol and high acidity. This is another austere, mineral laden rosé. It’s so dry; if you tasted this at room temperature, you’d swear you were drinking a red wine.

Domaine Noiré Chinon Rosé 14.99
This lipsmackingly refreshing rosé is full of bitter cherry, cranberry fruit. Domaine Noiré rosé is 100% Cabernet Franc and is serious stuff. It’s a wine that tasted blindfolded (I love that blindfold thing) tastes like a dry white wine. Jean-Max Manceau crafts a stony full flavored rosé from the limestone and chalk soil on his property. The result is a wine that’s electrified with acidity and citrus zest. Bring on the walleye.

Veglio 2005 Dolcetto d’Alba 13.99- I’ve had a love affair with Dolcetto for a number of years It’s no coincidence my love affair coincides with my real–life love affair that happily continues. Earthy, seductive aromas, but refined with a silky texture… This wine is like a woman with big biceps… intimidating at first but beautifully powerful. It’s substantial enough to pair with grilled summer fare, but accessible enough to wrap yourself around when you need a little summer comfort. Truly, truly adorable. Dolcetto is particularly versatile for summer dishes. Put a little chill on this deep garnet wine and enjoy it with sharp cheeses, antipasti or simply grilled meats or vegetables. Pay attention, you could be starting a long term love affair as well.

Cascina Ca’ Rossa 2005 Roero Arneis 14.99- There’s a reason Arneis is termed the “little rascal” of the grape growing world. The grape is hard to grow and although there are smatterings of it planted in the new world, the only place it truly thrives is the Piedmont region of Italy. The wine is a straw gold color and perfumed with fresh apricots and honey. Does that sound like the wine is sweet? No, this wine is illuminated with zingy minerality as well. Serve with your first of summer risotto or with something salty. Gabrielle, I’ll have the shrimp with anchovy butter, please.

Zuani Vigne 2005 Collio Bianco 19.99- This wine from the Collio region is an unlikely blend of Tocai, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc. White wine is king in this region, where the Austrian-Slovenian influences are apparent. The wine is golden in color and rich in fruit flavors but is all balanced by a brisk acidity. If you’re looking for a starring wine for a big event main course, and you don’t want generic, heavy-handed Chardonnay, try Zuani.

Bricco de Sole 2004 Chardonnay 13.99
Bricco 2005 Moscato d’Asti 13.99
These are two incredible values from Italy. This unlikely Chardonnay is 100% stainless steel fermented, is organically and biodynamically produced and boasts crisp, apple flavors. Bright, lively Chardonnay like you’ve never tasted before.

I just love Moscato d’ Asti, but find I sell the lion’s share of this wine as a table wine to sweet wine drinkers. I don’t get it. Sure it’s sweet, but it’s not sugary sweet, it’s sweet like a juicy peach, just dripping with minerality. Moscato only has ?% alcohol making it perfect for brunch (think salty bacon or ham) or a refreshing lunchtime quaffer. It’s also a perfect light ending to a summer meal. Just add some fresh fruit, a spoonful of mascarpone a few biscotti for a dessert that’s out of this world.

Anne Amie 2005 Pinot Gris 16.99
This one of the wines, aside from Pinot Noir, that Oregon really does right. We featured the Anne Amie Pinot Noir last year and everyone went wild. The Pinot Gris is a beautiful rendition and is stylistically Alsatian in it’s flavor profile. The wine has a gorgeous copper color along with a creamy, succulent texture. Flavors of ripe pear and sweet lemon peel make my mouth water. Pair this wine with grilled sausages or maybe some Copper River Salmon if you’re lucky enough to eat some this season.

Domaine de Ménard 2005 Colombard/Sauvignon 9.99
Talk about a wine that just shouts summertime, this very affordable wine from Cotes de Gasgogne is one of the best values I’ve encountered this season. A 50/50 blend of French Colombard (yes, you heard me right) and Sauvignon Blanc, Ménard offers up a tangy, zippy, grapefruit laden wine that’s sure to go with any garlicky thing you’re planning to cook up now that warm weather has arrived.

Loimer 2005 Grüner Veltliner 11.99 – We just had a great little write up in the June issue of Cincinnati magazine. It struck me that when the woman writing the article called she was so nonchalant about the whole thing. “I ate at your restaurant, really liked it, was thinking about writing an article.” The usual questions. Then a low key photographer comes up to take pictures, nice chit chat. Then a call from a Cincinnati customer…”Do you know there’s this great… no fabulous article about the Winds in Cincinnati magazine?” Wow, totally unexpected. Loimer’s liter bottle of Grüner Veltliner struck me a similar way. This chubby bottle with a screwcap will rock your summer wine drinking world. It’s full of lemon, peachy goodness, ready to be your “go to” wine when you get home from a long day at the office. Just make sure you have a copy of Cincinnati magazine to read while you’re relaxing.

Chateau Cotes de Brouilly 21.99 -It always bothers me that Beaujolais has such a bad reputation. That blasted Beaujolais Nouveau ruins the whole category. I love the cru Gamay wines from Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent and Cotes du Brouilly. This wine from Thivin is always one of my favorites. An old style hand crafted wine with lovely cherry flavors and a violet, lilac perfume. This beautiful bistro styled wine is best served with a slight chill with cheeses, salami or simple chicken.

Salomon 2005 Riesling Kögl 21.99
When I was in Austria a few years back I tasted with Erich Salomon and found him to be a lovely, charming man. Kögl is stony without being terse and offers a clarity that is quintessentially Austrian. If you’re thinking sweet Riesling, think again. This wine has more in common with a snappy Sauvignon Blanc than you might imagine. “Lime and tangerine aromas introduce a juicy, spicy, citric and white pepper-dusted palate with underlying nut oil character. Relatively austere in flavor, but with a lovely suggestion of creaminess of texture, long with citrus oils, fruit pits, and white pepper, as you work this up it shows plenty of nuances, nooks and crannies to hold the interest of even the most jaded taster.” 90 points Wine Advocate Issue 166 David Schildknecht.

Schloss Gobelsburg 2005 Riesling vom Urgestein 17.99
This wine is made from the young vines from the Cru Gaisberg and Heiligenstein sites. Instead of being a “little brother”, wine vom Urgestein is a beautifully pristine wine with citrus and red raspberries fruit. It’s an incredible value. I love the minerality…it’s like licking a salty stone.

Spreitzer 2005 Oestricher Lenchen Kabinett 21.99
Terry Theise proclaimed this wine the Kabinett of the 2005 vintage. Known for his provocative wine writing, I’ll let Terry speak to this wine. It’s edited for my audience. If you want to read more search Skurnik’s website. “Oh, sing to me baby! A fragrance you want to bathe in; freesia, quince, pêche-de-vigne, and the palate just showers a blessing over you; such juicy bursting fruit and such fine penetrating mineral, leading to a saturating balsam-lime-wintergreen finish that goes on for days.”

Kerpen 2005 Riesling Spälese Artist Series 29.99
I love the wines of Kerpen and as with many wines; I loved them even more after I met Martin Kerpen at a tasting in Chicago a few years back. His unassuming elegance is reflected in the beautifully pure wines he crafts. The label is fabulous. It’s whimsical and untraditional. How often do you see a German wine with a little bird in boat?” A strikingly creamy, oily, rich, quite sweet and almost fat palate impression along with aromas and flavors of caramelized apple, yellow plum, and vanilla is matched by a vividly bright, bracing citricity and wet stone slate character.” 91 points Wine Advocate Issue 169 David Schildknecht.

Selbach-Oster 2005 Riesling Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinett Halbtrocken 19.99
The Kabinett from one of the Mosel’s most accomplished estate is a dazzling wine. If I had to choose one Riesling from this newsletter in drink everyday, it would be this one. Lovely stone fruit flavors and a gorgeous stoniness that stretches my imagination for descriptors. Terry Theise writes,” They taste as if they’d been gathered by angels. They have a lovely gloss and glow. They are full of muscle but also a skater’s grace. They seem to be infinitely strong without ever becoming powerful.” I

Dönnhoff 2005 Estate Riesling 20.99
Some people collect cult Cabernets “cool” Barossa Shiraz, for my money give me some great Riesling to cellar for a few years. The difference is not just white vs. red wine; it’s about beautiful, ethereal wines that whisper their secret history as opposed to a shouting high school cheerleader. This estate Riesling is an anything BUT entry-level wine. It’s the full of springtime green herbs and slate that defies the price point. I always tell customers, if you want to start a wine collection, this is a good place to start. You’ll be rewarded for you patience.

Hexamer 2005 Riesling Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg “Quartzit” 17.99
Virginia blue bells and rue anemone are in full bloom on my property. I look out the window as I write this newsletter and feel like a prisoner. How much longer until I’m sprung from this joint and I can take a long to walk in the Glen? I worry I’ve missed the trout lily and wild ginger as my days off have been spent working or with sick kids. Wildflower season is so brief and so beautiful. In the blink of an eye, you can miss one flower, gone again until next spring…but I digress. Hexane is a relative newcomer to the Nahe and you guessed it, the soil type is quartz. Look for a clean snappy wine, perfect for rock heads. You know who you are…always loving those mineral, slatey, stony thangs’.

Schmitt-Wagner 2005 Riesling Longuicher Maximiner Herrenber Spätlese Feinherb 19.99
Feinherb is a strange work used in place of Halbtrocken or half dry. It’s a word that is misused, misinterpreted, convenient, loved and despised. Schmidt-Wagner fashions a remarkable wine from 109 year old ungrafted vines that delivers springtime aromatics of lilac, chervil and minty herbal elements. Terry Theise writes, “36 g.l. of virtually undetectable sweetness, and this masterpiece is a last hurrah from an endangered species, a perfectly balanced dry-ish Riesling: smoky slate and wisteria aromas; palate shows superb Mosel fruit in a tenderly dry form. Absolutely perfect food-wine!”

The Furst 2004 Riesling 12.99
My introduction to Riesling came via Zind-Humbrecht. I have a soft spot for those wines, although in recent years they’ve become so dear I seldom indulge myself. Imagine my glee finding this little beauty for under thirteen dollars…that’s right thirteen dollars! It’s on the dry side with lovely green apple fruit and a whiff of watercress and tarragon. So go on…indulge yourself. At this price, you could enjoy a glass or two every night.

Mas de Gourgonnier 2004 Les Baux de Provence 14.99

A work of art which did not begin in emotion is not art. – Paul Cézanne.

Art is such a tossed around word anymore I hesitate to comment when people say they’re an “artist”. I live in Yellow Springs for god’s sakes…everyone’s an artist. I guess I just don’t understand what being an artist means anymore. Does it mean you make your living selling art? Or does it mean you are poor and starving and never make any money for what you create? Alternatively, is it the way you see yourself in the world with no relationship to anyone or anything else? And, especially in the modern age, what is art and what is being a technician? I don’t claim to know the answers, all I know is that Mas de Gourgonnier makes a very artisan blend of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27%Grenache, 22% Syrah, 13% Carignan, 1% Cinsault & 1% Mouvedre. It’s dense and layer with dark fruit and full of garrique, the wild herbs that grow everywhere in the South of France. It’s also full of heart and soul. If you agree with Cezanne, then Mas de Gourgonnier is one artistic wine.

Mas des Brunes 2003 Cuvee des Cigales 15.99
“Where the heck is Côtes de Thongue?” you ask. Well, the Vins de Pays of Côtes de Thongue are produced in Languedoc. The vineyards stretch to the west of Pézenas in an area full of history and old vines. Mas des Brunes offers incredible value considering the dynamic wines they produce. The Cuvee des Cigales is a 60%Syrah/ 40% Grenache based wine with intense, high-toned red fruit flavors along with some darker plum elements. It’s meaty, earthy and just oozes terroir. Anyone interested in an early spring cookout or an Easter roast leg of lamb? Call me, we’ll talk.

Château les Valentines 2005 Le Caprice de Clémentine Côtes du Provence 13.99
This wine will surprise you. White wines from this region are not usually shining stars. We hosted a luncheon with Pascale Massenot, Gilles Pons last spring. Clementine showed up by mistake, and a fortunate mistake it turned out to be. Made from old vine Ugni Blanc, Le Caprice de Clémentine is a zippy, mineral laden beauty that’s light enough for lunch but also pairs beautifully with more complicated dishes. Note to self…Château les Valentines is located in La-Londe-Les-Maures. They’re on the move as one of the finest producers of red wines from the Côtes du Provence.

La Font de L’Olivier 2003 Carignan Vieilles Vignes 15.99
I find Carignan is one of those grape varietals that consumers either love or hate. I’m crazy for it. Le Font de L’ Olivier fashions a rustic wine that’s reminiscent of meat juices and wild herbs. I won’t stop here because this wine deserves much more attention. Aside from a certain gamey element, this old vine Carignan (75 year old vines) produces a wine that also incredibly silky in texture. The wine finishes with hints of chocolate and the subtle nuttiness of cocoa nibs. What can I say…I love it. La Font de L’ Olivier is made by owner/winemaker Bruno Granier, brother of Isabelle Bertrand, owner of Mas des Brunes. Bruno is currently involved in a geological survey, which could possibly change his appellation to Faugères. Stay tuned.

Château de Pibarnon 2000 Bandol 25.99
Château de Pibarnon 2003 Bandol 37.99
It’s documented that Cézanne painted until a week before his death. He collapsed while painting outdoors and was carried home. He wrote “I could paint for a hundred years, a thousand years without stopping and I would still feel as though I knew nothing.”
This is how I feel about wine. The more I study, the more I taste and discuss, the less I seem to know. Bandol is the perfect example. This is a wine I’ve love since my first encounter nearly 20 years ago when I tasted the legendary Domaine Tempier. I love the power of Mourvedre, but with a bit of age, the wine turns into something more akin to a full-bodied Pinot Noir. Pibarnon’s version has flavors of black plum and black cherry with elements of white pepper. These wines will last a good ten years. Buy the 2000 and 2003 and compare the vintage variation as well as aging potential. Also, check out one of my favorite wine blogs, www.wineterroirs.com. Bertrand is a French photographer/ food and wine lover who has traveled extensively in Provence. His posts are incredible.

Bastidonne 2005 Viognier Côtes du Ventoux 12.99
Bastidonne is one of those wines that’s almost too good for the price. It’s like a happy, content marriage…comfortable, but sometimes taken for granted. This beautiful, straw colored wine has a lovely floral aroma with juicy citrus and apricot fruit elements. What an awesome wine! I mean for 12.99 you will not find a more delightful white wine for spring quaffing. It’s aromatic, bright and full of lively minerality. If you don’t buy this wine by the case you’ll miss one of the season’s best values. Give this Viognier to someone you love but have forgotten to acknowledge as of late, for under thirteen dollars it’s money well spent. I guarantee it.

Chateau de Roquefort 2006 Rosé Corail 13.99
These first beautiful days make me feel so good it’s like falling in love. What is it about fresh, clean air, chirping birds and a few daffodils that make nearly everyone feel like a million bucks? How can we preserve and maintain that feeling all year long? Everyone just seems optimistic and energized. Van Gogh wrote, “The diseases that we civilized people labor under most are melancholy and pessimism.” He wrote that almost 120 years ago, but it certainly rings true in our modern age. If we were allowed to vote on such matters, I’d petition to make a national holiday when the first rosé of the season is released. This year’s winner would be the biodynamically produced Château de Roquefort. It’s always one of my favorites. What’s not to like about this beautifully mineral sparked wine? It’s bursting with fresh, tart, strawberry flavors that scream for garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs. Ok, you have beautiful spring weather, wild flowers…what else do you need, a starry night?